Udon Thani Travel Guide: Ban Chiang and the Lotus Lake

Udon Thani at a glance

Udon Thani is a mid-sized city in northeast Thailand, 560km northeast of Bangkok and 55km from the Laos border. It has a significant expat community (largely American veterans who settled after the Vietnam War era) and is one of the more internationally connected Isan cities. For travellers, it functions as a gateway to Ban Chiang, the lotus lake, and the Vientiane crossing.

Ban Chiang UNESCO World Heritage Site

50km east of Udon Thani. The village sits above a Bronze Age burial site dated to approximately 2100–200 BCE. The site museum has two excavation pits preserved under shelter — you walk above the pits on raised walkways looking down at skeletons with grave goods still in situ. The pottery collection (including the iconic red swirl-painted vessels) is in a second exhibition hall.

The village itself is a working community — locals sell reproductions of the painted pottery. The originals are in Bangkok’s National Museum and the site museum.

Getting there: Songthaew from Udon Thani’s morning market (฿70, 1 hour), or taxi/tour (฿800–1,200 return with waiting time).

Nong Han Kumphawapi Lotus Lake

35km south of Udon Thani. One of Thailand’s most unusual natural sights — a large shallow lake that becomes almost completely covered by pink lotus flowers from November to February. The lotus blooms at dawn and closes by midday. A longtail boat can be hired from the landing (฿200–300 for 30 minutes) to paddle through the flowers. The lake also has local freshwater fishing communities and floating restaurants serving fried lotus stems and catfish.

Best time: November to February, early morning.

Udon Thani city

UD Town — The city’s central shopping and food complex, with a good street food area outside in the evenings.

Central Plaza Udon Thani — The main mall has a supermarket and international food chains useful for longer stays.

Night Market — The walking street on Saturdays (Prajak Road) has a well-organised mix of Isan food, clothing, and local crafts.

Wat Pa Ban Tad — A forest monastery 7km from the city associated with the revered monk Ajahn Maha Bua. Grounds are open to visitors outside of meditation sessions.

Practical information

Getting there — Flights from Bangkok Suvarnabhumi and Don Mueang (1 hour, ฿800–1,500). Overnight bus from Bangkok Mo Chit (8–9 hours, ฿350–500). Train connections exist but are slow.

Laos crossing — Tuk-tuk to Friendship Bridge (฿100–150), cross on the shuttle bus (฿20 Lao kip or baht accepted), visa on arrival for most nationalities ($30–42 USD).